Greece isAegean IslandsKnows wellCretaGASTRONOMYrestaurants
The secret places - by the sea or nearby - for a good meal after a swim on the island.
Von Ifigenia Virvidaki, Nena Dimitriou|August 31, 2016
CHAPTER
1. Ilios: fish specialties in the Libyan Sea
Afamily barin Sfakia Loutro in a heavenly resort on the south coast of Chania. here you will findFisch(fished by the owners themselves, Nikos and George Androulakakis), meats, stews, soups and fisherman noodles (with shrimp and seafood). Wine is served by the jug, but local brands are also available. All this can be enjoyed by the blue waters of the Libyan Sea. Accessible from Sfakia by boat. (To stretch:www.anendyk.gr)
• INFORMATION: Loutro Sfakion, Tel. (+30) 28250.91.460, Cost: around €12 per person (drinks not included), Open from 7.30am until late at night.
2. Patrelantonis: Amazingly Fresh Sea Urchins and Fennel Squid
 
One classicfish tavern‒ perfectly fried squid, fresh fish, sea urchins still smelling of the sea, crab noodles, etc., but also traditional dishes ‒kalitsounia,Dako, squid with fennel, all on lively Marathi beach in Souda Bay.elegantly decoratedwith white wooden tables and blue chairs. Do you have anwine listwith many labels
• INFORMATION: Marathi, Akrotiri, tel. (+30) 28210.63.337, Open in the morning for ouzo or coffee until late at night, Cost: around €20 per person (drinks not included).
3. Captain Phidias: Everyone here knows about fish
Captain Fidias's four Sonsfish every day with theirzwei caiquesfor seafood and fish served in the tavern under huge trees on Sfinari beach. Choose what Dona Ariadne, the captain's wife, proposes and she will take care of the rest.
The inn has been in operation since1976and is famous for itssun dried octopus, fish, chowder, crab, lobster, squid, shrimp and everything the sea has to offer. The wine served in the jug is hers. When the west wind is not blowing, the beach, 60 km west of Chania, is ideal for swimming in deep water, sandy or pebbly beaches. But you can also swim in it.Phalasarnaand come here to eat.
• INFORMATION: Sfinari Kissamos, tel. (+30) 28220.41.107, cost: around €20 per person (with salad, main course and side dish without drinks) but it depends on the choice of fish. Open from tomorrow.
4. Plakures: Cretan cuisine with a twist
OPlakures Hotel & Restaurant, run by the Vagionakis-Kramer family, is a place where you can taste Greek cuisinespecial touches. Obuilding stretchEartesanal noodleswith tomato and mushrooms are just as delicious as the vegetable risotto and the classic lamb with red sauce. On offer are five labels of white wine and four of red wine, as well as wines by the jug (red, white and rosé).
As for the nearby beach, it needs no introduction:Phalasarnait is one of the most beautiful in the world, with fresh, clear, blue water, fine sand and lots of people. Luckily it's pretty big. The restaurant is just a few meters from the sea, across the road from the beach.
 
• INFORMATION: Phalasarna, Kissamos, Tel. (+30) 28220.41.581, open for lunch and dinner, cost: €15-20 per person (drinks not included)
5. Crisóstomo: A cantina full of treasures
You need aBoot von Sfakia oder Palaiochora(or if you like hiking, the E4 trail leads there) to get to Crisóstomo's canteen, but it's 100% worth it. The flavors are great - if you've ever eaten at the same owners' namesake restaurant in Chania, you'll understand why. Where should I start? The bread is its own, kneaded and baked in a wood-fired oven, lamb or kid stew or oven-roasted with potatoes,building stretch, TollBrian, Salad with gameChicoreeEAnthotyrocheese etc. It is no coincidence that in 2013 theThe British Guardian newspaperr reported howone of the top 10 beach canteensin Europe Wine by the jug or bottle. Marmara beach and tavern is four nautical miles from Sfakia (10 to 20 minutes depending on the boat) and one nautical mile from Loutro.
• INFORMATION: Marmara Beach, Sfakia, Tel. (+30) 282577.22.99, open morning, noon and night, cost: €10-15 per person (drinks not included).
6. Sto Scholeio: as especialidades de Simone
the one at schoolanhydrousClosed in 1970 and in place for 20 years akafenionow in operation, run by Christos Vardoulakis and his wife Simone Bosch. Sitting in the shade of a300 year old olive tree, overlooking the Anidri Gorge and the Libyan Sea, you might have to wait a while as it's often full, but it's worth it for Simone's daily changing menu. Pies (with eggplant and gruyere with figs, blue cheese, walnuts, etc.) and chicken fillet with feta sauce, vegetarianMoussaka, cheesecake withtiramalamacheese, vegetarianPapoutsakiawith celery root, zucchini flowers etc. Wine is mostly served in a decanter. Kafeneio is just a 10-minute drive from Anidri Beach and 4 km from Paleochora.
• INFORMATION: Anidri, Selino, tel. (+30) 28230.83.001,Cost: 13-15€ per person (drinks not included),Open from 9.30 am for coffee until late at night.



RARE
7. Aghia Fotia: Roasted rabbit and fish of the day
A few kilometers from the village of Kerames, on the road to Keramiani Gialia. all kind oftraditional casseroleshere they cook: rabbit stew, lamb in lemon, etc. and you will also find fish of the day. OThe tables are fewbut the service is fast and the desserts are homemade.
• INFORMATION: Aghia Fotini, tel. (+30) 6937,124,600, open in the morning, cost: around €15-16 per person.
8. Praia Ligres: Homemade breakfast and cooked meals
 
To the south of the village of Kerames you will find the small guesthouse "Ligres Beach" with just 10 rooms, named after the nearby beach. Michalis Pisces and her mother in the kitchen take care of the food. She wasn't a professional cook - she started because of the tavern, so anything you try will have ahomemade character. Moussaka, okra with chicken, braised beef and pork with beans are served daily. There is also breakfast: omelettes, eggs, yogurt with honey and homemade jam from fresh fruit.
• INFORMATION: Ligres, tel. (+30) 6974.234.509, open in the morning, cost: around €15-16 per person with drink.
9. I Kantina Tou Manoli: Meat roasted in the shade of a carob tree
"Dependentnot humorwe wake up, so we cook.” With these words, Manolis informs visitors that any food they encounter has been prepared with taste: roast lamb, pork, briam and stuffed vegetables, roast lamb and thickly sliced potatoes roasted to perfection. Seafood depends on what makes up the sea. The usual appetizers, Greek salad,Dako,favaand cold beers. the wine andnorteare from Chania. The service is very friendly, with abright smileand a good heart. Tables and chairs sit under the cafe in the dense shade of the carob tree. At sunset, the sky turns purple over crystal clear water.
• INFORMATION: Praia de Peristeres, Tel. (+30) 6937.554.059, Open from 8.30 am, Cost: €15 per person with drinks



Heraklion
10. Saradari: Kretische Ceviche
creative seafoodoverlooking the turquoise water. Here you can eat ceviche with fish of the day, anchovies marinated with wild chicory, mushroom burgers with portobello mushrooms instead of bread, prawns, squid and octopus, and other Mediterranean dishes with local ingredients that give them an interesting touch. you also have onegreat wine list. Reservation is absolutely necessary.
• INFORMATION: Limanakia Hersonissos, Tel. (+30) 28970.25.375, open in the morning, costs €25-30 per person with wine.
11. Stavros: Everything Handmade
 
You can reach Maridaki by a bumpy ride along a 15 km trail. Gravel road, 30 minutes walk up a steep path from Tsoutsouras or a short boat ride from Tsoutsouras harbour. in the tavern,dishes of the dayoffered, prepared by Vasso, wife of Stavros. Stuffed vegetables and zucchini flowers, roast lamb and pork. Wine by the carafe, cheese and ice cream they make themselves.
• INFORMATION: Maridaki, without telephone, open in the morning, cost: 15€ per person with drinks
12. Pelagos: Apenas peixes
A fish tavern on the beach ofKatalyki. No frills, just fresh fish daily. Try the soup, lobster spaghetti, grilled squid and some appetizers. Six bottle wine labels are offered bylocal vineyard. Wine by the jug is also available.
• INFORMATION: Kokkinos Pirgos, Timpaki, Tel. (+30) 28920.53.394, Open from 12h00, Cost: 15-17€ per person
13. Giorgos: Own fish, seasonal dishes
Mother Anna takes care of the kitchen, father and grandfather of the family are fishermen and bring various seafood. On the menu you will findmany stews, casseroles and meat dishes.Zaro cheese, Wines from Heraklion Wineries: Five labels of bottled wine, but the bottled wine from Strataridaki Winery is the store's best seller. Finish the meal with ice cream and house fruit, served chillednorte.
• INFORMATION: Kalamaki, tel. (+30) 28920.45.311, Open from 10 am, Cost: around €15 per person.
14. Hiona Seafood: Seafood special soup
This tavern offers some greatseafood optionsat the highest level, whose specialty is a rich seafood soup. Golden fish, fried mullet and fish in red sauce. Wine in a carafe or labels from Cretan wineries.
• INFORMATION: Hiona Beach, Sitia, Tel. (+30) 28430.61.228, open in the morning, cost: 20-25€ per person for fish.

LASITHI
15. Kalliotzina: cottage cheese and zucchini flowers
The Story of Kalliotzinas, theFamília Kalliontzistarted 60 years ago when a small cafe opened in Koutsouras and served fishermen. The tavern is opensince the 80'sand the kitchen is now run by Kalliotzinas daughters, daughters-in-law and granddaughters. Home cooking leads the way.Xygalocheese, dolmades and stuffed zucchini flowers,Brian, okra, stuffed vegetables like on the island, meatStifadoand tender pork roasted in the oven. Trees add pleasant coolness, benches surround the tables and in the eveningLive musicoften keeps things running.
• INFORMATION: Koutsouras, Makrigialos, Sitia, Tel. (+30) 28430.51.207, Open from 12h00, Cost: around €16 per person with drinks.
16. Elia: Zucchini flowers with coarse salt and stuffed vegetables in a pan
 
Fanis Eikosipentakis era dono da taberna„Peperia“ em Pefki, in South Lasithi, for 20 years. Her mother Eudoxia, a famous cook, works wonders in the kitchen.Makrys GialosThe beach is 7 km away, where they have been running the Elia tavern for three years now, offering traditional cuisine. Here you can eat wild vegetables with lamb, stuffed vine leaves and flowers stuffed with rice and coarse salt, as well as feta cheese and fresh mint. Fish of the day, locally sourced meat and seasonal vegetables. The house wine is organic from the Monastery of Toplou, and there are 18 labels from local wineries to choose from.
• INFORMATION: Makrys Gialos, Tel. (+30) 28430.51.910, Ab morgens geoffnet, Kosten: ca. €16 per person
17. "Sophia": barbecue master
Sofiais the wife of innkeeper George Petrakis. She's acricket expertand responsible for the inn's grills for 25 years. George's mother is aAce in stews. you will findexquisite casserolesand dishes in tomato sauce, local meats and lots of wild vegetables. The jug wine comes from the Monastery of Toplou and Archanes, and the bottled wine selection comes from Crete and the rest of Greece. her free fruitown gardenis offered at the end of the meal.
• INFORMATION: Kato Zakros, Mochlos, Tel. (+30) 28430.94.554, open in the morning, cost: around €17 per person, including drinks.
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